Fiji: Our Journey to Paradise

Although I enjoy the rush of a city and the unseen energy that seems to move everything; my mind, body and soul can only tolerate so much noise, traffic and busy people. Sydney was amazing, but we were ready to bid her a fond adieu and once again embrace the island life that suits us best.

We arrived at the airport and immediately joined the outstretched line for Air Pacific. We entertained ourselves with some people watching and our usual banter. The line moved fairly quickly, despite the passport issues, forms not filled out and too much luggage that caused a few delays. The attendant gave us a deal on our overweight luggage. We did our best to trim it down, but missed by 5 kilos. Not too bad considering the amount of gear we carry.

We breezed through customs and security. Usually we have to pull camera cords and chargers out because they resemble a homemade bomb. Monty has even been pulled out and scanned separately, but nothing this go. We looked at each other a little shocked; we get nervous when things go that smoothly during the airport portion of the trip. We found some comfy chairs and I enjoyed a Pure Blonde, while my pure blonde shopped for a new watch in Duty Free. I was impressed when he came back with a lovely dive watch that he had selected in less than 20 minutes. This is quite an amazing feat for the Dunkster. His usually shopping techniques are very thorough.



As we found our gate, a massive 2 level plane was pulled up. Wow, must be going on to LAX after we stop in Fiji. We were both anxious to get on the plane and begin our first real vacation. I know, I know, we travel a lot. This is true, but it is always work or work related. This is our first trip together that is just about us exploring a new place. There is no schedule, no plan, and no underwater camera housings. We found our seats near the back and I kid you not there were 4 babies strategically placed to our 4 sides. There was however an empty seat to my left. Last time we flew to Fiji we had a guy that chugged 5 beers and 3 double whiskeys before passing out for 10 hours. We had to climb over him to get into the isle. One flight attendant hit him pretty hard in attempt to wake him, but he was out cold. Ah the adventures of travel. Monty luxuriated in the spare seat when he was not acting my pillow.



The flight was fairly quick, a mere 4 hours. This breaks down to a meal, 2 glasses of wine, part of a movie (Yogi Bear) and a 2-hour nap for me. There was only mild screaming from the strategically placed babies. We arrived in Nadi and were excited that this trip we would be staying longer than a 5 hour explore. As we made our way through customs we were greeted by lots of smiling faces and everyone yelling “ Bula!” This is hello, good morning, good evening…etc in Fiji. We headed to the rental car place where it took nearly 30 minutes to get our car. Yep, back on island time.We were anxious to get on the road, as we knew it was going to be a bit of a drive. Our trusty steed was a small Toyota that would surely be put through her paces. Had to stop and get fuel and grabbed a few snacks. Now we were officially on our way.

We wove through villages that became further and further apart, as the jungle consumed more space. It is quite exciting driving down a rather bumpy and narrow road when you have absolutely no idea where you are or where you are going. We passed people walking, dogs, cattle, horses and avoided taxis that came flying around corners with 2 wheels on our side of the road. It was Sunday and most of the villages were holding a church service with people sat in circles in small huts. We could hear singing and laughing as we passed. The air is heavy with freshness and nature. It smells of flowers, fresh cut grass and the sea. You feel invigorated and it seemed to cleanse us of the toxic plane air you ingest when flying. The road kept winding as kilometers passed. Our directions said the turn for our house was approximately 5 minutes past the Outrigger Resort. We made our way through several roundabouts and only made one wrong guess as to which road was the one we were suppose to continue on. Not too bad. The last 5K seemed to take forever as we watched the numbers slowly approach our destination. We made our turn and stopped as we faced a massive hill.

We had opted not to get the 4WD because were not planning any jungle treks. Now with a steep unpaved track in front of us we realized the 4WD option might have been a more suitable plan. Ah well, we were there now. Dunk has quite a bit of off road experience, so he took off with a great big grin on his face. There were massive rocks and ruts where the road had washed away. We passed our first house and just kept going. Sydney, the island dog that we recognized from the blog, came to greet us. We continued upward passing 2 more houses. We figured that we could always come back down if we needed to, but we had to keep our momentum. As we neared the crest of what seemed like an endless hill, our host was standing with a flashlight. As we pulled through the gates we stopped and both took a breath. I am pretty sure were both held ours for most of the ascent.

Scott, the property owner greeted us and expressed how impressed he was with Dunk’s driving. I think Dunk was relieved, but impressed as well. He then explained that the power was out and handed us some flashlights. Ah island life!! Made our way into the house and found some extra lanterns. He gave us the nickel tour and chatted for a bit. We would get better acquainted in the morning, as it was already after 10 pm. We found a large beer and a papaya in the fridge! Excellent. We had finally made it. High on a hilltop, in the middle of the jungle, we had found our little piece of paradise. We fell asleep listening to waves crash against the beach and a lovely breeze coming through the windows. Bula Fiji!

What's Up in the Land Down Under

As you have probably guessed from my previous entry, Monkey Mia is tucked away in a pretty remote part of the world. Being part of the Shark Bay World Heritage Site, this area has been minimally impacted by human intrusion. Animals are protected, the natural resources are valued and it remains pristine. The sea grass beds of Shark Bay are the heart of a very complex ecosystem that has an incredible amount of diversity. The human condition has not intoxicated the area, so it is possible to study these animals in a place that is still raw and wild.

Monkey Mia has put itself on the map for the beach dolphins that come in each morning to feed. This activity has been drawing tourists from around the world for over 30 years. In the beginning people could buy a small bucket of fish and feed the dolphins as they liked. Unfortunately this caused the female beach dolphins to neglect their calves and spend most of their time begging for food. Nicky, named for the “ nick” in her dorsal fin, remains the biggest beggar and has lost 7 of her 8 calves. She was also, on average, biting 6 people a day when the feeds were not regulated. Today the dolphin feeds are guided and monitored by the Department of Conservation (DEC) rangers. They ensure a safe interaction between human and animal, as well as monitoring the behaviors of the dolphins. I prefer sharks to dolphins any day, but I must admit having a wild dolphin cruise through to say hello when you walk the beach at 11 pm is pretty incredible.



Our first crew, myself included, was there to film some of the research being done as part of curriculum based series of videos for middle and high school students. This unique ecosystem has catalyzed a dynamic range of studies from sea snakes to tiger sharks. All the organisms within the system affect one another directly and indirectly. It is possible to specify how and what is interacting within the system, with the possibilities for research being endless. Mike Heithaus is the host for the videos and his energy and passion are contagious. There is never a dull moment and the science comes alive. Pat Greene, who first worked with Mike as an assistant in Shark Bay and then filming the Critter Cam series, was there as the topside shooter and producer. Many scientists and researchers chose to do so because they are not exactly social butterflies. Mike, however, has an innate ability to connect the research to the average person and get them interested and even excited. This connection is crucial in spreading awareness about the current conditions of our oceans. I have been fortunate to work with Mike on a few occasions and he never fails to make the hard work pale in comparison to the adventure.

The video work included the deployment of spot tags on large tiger sharks, capturing and tagging turtles and rays, as well as deploying cameras to assess fish predation in the sea grass beds. The weather was not on our side, so every moment was precious. The long days started at 4:30 for me, usually joined by Derek in the caravan. Took me nearly 2 weeks to sleep past 5 am. It gave me the chance to enjoy the beach dolphins and do some yoga before the workday began. At this point is has been 100 degrees or higher every day. By 10 am the A/C in the main caravan is overrun and the sweat fest begins. My first sleeping area was a bunk in an annex built next to a caravan with only a small fan for airflow. Ah field work. No worries, life is not bad when you are in Monkey Mia and better the heat than snow and freezing temps.

The main caravan, which also served as a bedroom the first time I came to Shark Bay, is the lounge, office, supply shed, kitchen and dinning area. It is older than any person working and living there and has strategically placed duct tape and zip ties holding it together. The old fridge is now dry storage and items are squirreled away in the bathroom (now a closet) and in every cupboard and space possible. The gas stove is temperamental with the flames either on full or off, which makes cooking eggs an adventure. The oven only has one row of flames, so it is necessary to rotate whatever is cooking every 5 minutes or so. Despite this I managed to make a very yummy vegan chocolate cake, peanut butter cookies, naan bread and dinner rolls. The air conditioner was overpowered by about 10 am each morning as we saw temperatures over 100 almost everyday. At this point you just accept that no matter what you are doing inside or out there will be sweat. It is one of those places that being on the water is where you want to be.

The field station is located on the backside of the resort in the caravan area. The restrooms are part of the resort, so having to pee at 3 am is really a mission. There is only one set that has freshwater with the others having bore (salt & fresh mix) water, a pleasant surprise when you brush your teeth the first time. The beds are stashed amongst different caravans, so where you sleep and with whom may change during the course of a visit. As I mentioned above, my first bed was a bunk in an annex with no air conditioning and a fan that worked when it felt like it. I know this seems like a lot of issues and maybe complaints, but I want to highlight how none if this matters when you step outside and see the paradise that is at your doorstep. As a field researcher life is not glamorous, but you experience things that no amount of money could buy.

The fleet of boats has changed since my first trip in 2006. Sadly the high salinity in Shark Bay is constantly eating boats and motors, so they do not last very long. Suckerfish has been replaced by Cuvier (tiger shark) and Hellafish has been replaced by Caretta (green turtle). The customized Blowfish II, designed for work in Shark Bay, has replaced Blowfish. The high salinity within the bay reeks havoc on boats, trailers and anything else that spends anytime in it or near it. We helped Derek change the throttle cables on Blowfish (actually pretty interesting) and then she was ready for her maiden voyage of the season. I was pretty excited to take her for a test run, as Derek had to be on the other boat for some filming. It has been a while since I have been able to drive a boat and it was awesome!! She really is lovely to drive, with a lot of power and excellent handling. This was a nice change from Caretta, which had been our vessel while we waited for parts. Caretta gave up on us twice and we had to get towed to shore.



The priority for our time here is getting satellite tags on large tiger sharks. It is known that they leave the bay in the winter, but numbers are dropping each year. The tags will hopefully tell us where they are going and if they are being fished out. This highlights the importance of not only protecting an area, but a species, as they are migratory and most often leave the sanctuaries or protected areas. Proving this with data collected from satellites strengthens the movement to expand marine protected areas to a much larger scale globally.

The sharks are caught using the drum line method. This setup has a baited hook attached to a set of floats with a longer length of line attached to an anchor that sits on the bottom. This allows the shark to swim freely in a circle and not tangle itself, reducing the stress on the animal. The lines soak for a short period of time and then it’s SHARK TIME. Running the lines is very exciting because you never know what you are going to get. Once we have a shark on the line it is important to handle the animal quickly and efficiently to reduce stress. The animal is brought beside the boat, so that it can continue to swim and breathe. The shark’s length is measured, a DNA sample is taken by snipping a small piece of the dorsal fin, a tag is inserted and blood is taken. The hook is removed and the animal is released.




We also busy catching turtles and rays. The method of capture is slightly different, but the data collected is the same. Rays are caught in the shallows using a weighted net that is released from the boat in a massive circle. This reduces the area the animal can move and people jump in with smaller dip nets to secure it.


Most of the work is done in the water if possible, again to reduce the stress on the animal.



In order to catch the turtles someone must dive off the bow of the boat and catch them Yes, that is what I said. A person rides the bow of the boat as it cruises along and looks for turtles. When one is spotted the jumper directs the boat driver, as the wear the turtle is moving. This becomes an exciting ride with the boat doing donuts, speeding up and slowing down. I love being the driver when someone is turtling. It is challenging, but so much fun. An excuse to drive crazy! Once the turtle slows a bit the person dives in and grabs them behind the head and swims them to the surface. This is a lot easier said than done. It takes a great deal of practice and there are lots of dirt darts into the sand and belly flops. The turtle is brought on the boat and the data is collected before releasing them.



Long days, no Internet or phone, 100 degree temperatures with no air conditioning would be enough to deter most of the population off, no matter how beautiful the location is. It does take a special type of person to not only tolerate less than ideal conditions, but to make it their life for weeks or months on end. They may enjoy a day or two, but when it gets to the down and dirty they crumble. For me personally, I have a long list of reasons that make any challenges or discomfort disappear. 5 am setting of shark lines is not a problem when you know that within a few hours you are going to be handling a 3m tiger shark. Watching the sunrise as dolphins ride the bow of your boat, watching dugongs cruise through the shallows, catching 300lb loggerhead turtles and seeing sea snakes floating at the surface while they digest a fish; yes these are the moments that make it a life changing experience.
Hiking to the top of a red sand cliff and then surfing down to crystal clear water, spotting a manta ray effortlessly swimming by, catching a tagging a species of ray or shark that you have never seen, knowing that the data you collect is helping not on the species, but the oceans in general. Seeing the sky painted the most brilliant reds and purples as you sip a ice cold beer, having a dolphin swim to the boat and beg for food, stars filling the night sky because there is no light pollution and sharing all these moments with a small group of incredible people. As I am writing this I am vividly remembering the smells and the sites of this place. The way the ocean air feels against your skin as you are breaking through the waves. The way a shark’s skin feels and the color of their eyes. The endless postcard moments are yours forever. This is why I don’t care about air conditioning, an uncomfortable mattress or salty showers. I guess I am lucky because if everyone could do it the opportunity would not be as unique.

Airports, Aussies & Alcohol

As the arid landscape slips past, the girl next to me is carefully applying fake eyelashes from her collection of at least a dozen. She slips out of flip-flops and into stilettos before disembarking the bus at a road stop for our lunch break. Our chariot is a Greyhound with 2 elder Aussies blokes taking turns at the wheel and as storytellers on the microphone. I am on my way to Monkey Mia and it is day 4 of my expedition. (It was a trip, but quickly developed into something far more challenging)
My journey began Tuesday morning at 4:30 am while I frantically packed for my 6:00 am departure. Reading 17 on the thermometer forced me to slip on sneakers and stow my flip-flops. It would just until I got inside the airport I convinced myself. Mom took me to Portsmouth where I grabbed the bus to Logan. The bus ride was peaceful, no cell phones please. I feel like in American society today this is worst than burning the flag. We were detoured due to heavy traffic, but a back road sent us past 6 deer on a frozen lake. I do believe an appropriate way to bid New England farewell.
Once in Boston the adventure truly began. I composed myself, although I knew I was going to be a sweaty mess, disheveled and looking as though I had run up several flights of stairs wearing a heavy winter jacket and carrying a large sack of potatoes. I rolled my entourage of 4 bags up to the self-check and the computer beeped at me with each failed attempt to get my boarding pass. Oh shit. I will be honest, leaving this time felt a little off. We had just put Maggie, our beloved yellow lab down on Friday and as a family we were all struggling a bit. Duncan called from the Bob Barker and was able to say goodbye over speakerphone. Not the week I had planned on having at home. I really felt bad for leaving and wondered if it was the right thing to do.
A Delta assistant informed me I would need to go to the counter. Mind you, I had attempted to do this in the first place and was told I needed to self-check in. Once there I slung my bags onto the scale, wincing. The first was one was clear, but the Pelican case was giving me the stink eye, knowing full well it would tip the scale. 67 lbs and that will be $150.00. YOWZA. I asked her why the charge. I was flying Virgin across the Pacific and their limit was 2 bags up to 70 lbs each. Does not matter she insisted. I asked kindly if she could check for me because in the past it had been the baggage limits for the carrier you were going international with. “ I have been working here 27 years and I think I know how it works.” Anxious to prove me wrong she called the manager over. He informed her that I, in fact, was correct and this was confirmed by another coworker. I could literally see the steam coming out of her ears. 27 years, but maybe time for a refresher course? I thanked her and my smile was reciprocated with a glare. Glad to see I was flying the friendly skies.
Now 3 hours to kill. No worries, due to heavy complaint, Logan now has free wireless Internet. I am terribly behind on work, as I spent most of the prior week lying on the floor with a cancer-ridden dog that still continued to wag her tail. I kept thinking of that as my adventure continued and each step became more challenging than the last. No matter what if you can keep wagging your tail, things will be better. Easier said than done.
My flight from Boston to Minneapolis was over quickly, as I slept the entire way. Another quick hop to LAX and then things started to get interesting. The flight was delayed and I fell asleep waiting next to the gate. A nice lady woke me up, so that I could board the plane. I really wasn’t paying attention to the time or the delay; just wondering how much of the 15 hour flight I would be able to sleep. My vegetarian in flight meals weren’t bad and I watched parts of several movies as I moved in and out of sleep. As we were being told to put our seats in the upright position I decided to pull out my itinerary and see how much of a layover I had. It was then that I discovered my connecting flight had already left. I asked the stewardess and she said ground crew would be able to help. I disembarked and all Hell broke lose. The baggage claim at Sydney airport might be one of the most manic places on earth. With no logical flow of traffic, it is complete chaos.
I waited patiently as both my cases came flying off the shoot and onto the belt I managed to score a cart with a great white shark on it. I felt that maybe the situation was improving; I was wrong. I turned around and saw one of my travel companions and said I would be late getting into Perth. No worries there flight was delayed as well. See you on the other side. Now that I had my bags I was at the back of a line of what seemed like millions of people. I found an official looking bloke and asked if there was a possibility if moving ahead as I needed to catch a flight because I had already missed my first one. He pointed to a line and I quickly moved through. No questions asked by the customs agent just a stamp and on my way. This is when I entered the gauntlet. When you clear customs you are dumped into a whirlpool of families, drivers and worn out travelers. I wove my way through trying to be polite as I saw the light at the end of the tunnel. I am sure I hit at least one small child, but it was such a blur. I just needed to get to the Virgin Domestic travel counter on the opposite end of approximately 150 people crammed in a small space like cattle. No problem.
At the counter I was informed the fastest way to Perth was via Melbourne, not a direct flight? Sure, just get me there. I was handed my bus ticket and whisked off across town (probably not across town, but it seemed like it) to the domestic airport. The flight was a blur and I am not even sure how long I was in Melbourne or that we even landed there.
I arrived in Perth 4 hours later than planned a sweaty mess. It is summer in Australia and about 90 degrees by 8:00 am, of you were wondering. As I moved to the baggage carousel I heard the words of doom over the intercom. Jillian Morris please come to the baggage claim area. Oh boy. So my one suitcase has decided to spend some extra time in Sydney. Why not? I tried to explain to the woman where I was staying at Monkey Mia, in a research trailer with no real address. Monkey Mia, although a tourist resort, remains under the radar for many Aussies. She made some calls and it was arranged to have my case flown up and delivered the next day. No worries the camera housing was with me and that was my main concern.
Now to head to Avis to meet my road trip buddies. I checked in at the desk and was told they had already picked up the car. Hmm… well maybe they were out getting supplies and would be back? I had seen them in Sydney, so they knew I was going to be delayed. I went to buy a phone card. No luck, so had to get a refund. Collect calls were also not working. As I stood there a little overwhelmed, the clerk from Avis handed me a note.
Sorry Jillian we had to leave. Here is Derek’s number.
The tears of exhaustion poured. I called Derek. They had left an hour ago. Time to get a hotel and book a bus trip north. I found a cab and made my way to the only hotel I know in Perth. I approached the desk worn and weathered. The desk agent informed me that they were fully booked, but suggested the hotel across the street. He called for me and confirmed they had a room, but I would have to get online to book it. Okay done. Now time to lug my 70 lb pelican case across the street to my home for the night. The concierge was lovely and gave me a coupon for a complimentary drink. I am sure I looked as though I would need several. I called the airline and told them I would be in Perth and they said my bag would be delivered that evening.

Time for some food. I wandered downstairs and enjoyed my free glass of wine and hit the IGA. Tim Tams, Jatz and party mix. For those of you who are not aware of these items then you have not truly lived. Tim Tams are the world’s most amazing chocolate cookie. Jatz are the world’s most delicious crackers with nothing even close to comparable in the states. Party mix is an array of delicious gummy candies retreated to my room to feast of my Aussie dinner. Yes, that’s right! Cookies, crackers and candy for dinner! I woke up at 11 pm and went downstairs to retrieve my case! Change of clothes and my toothbrush! YAY!
A long shower and a comfy bed were exactly what I needed. I set the alarm and was asleep before my head hit the pillow. Unfortunately the clock was off an hour so my leisurely pre alarm wake up turned into a panicked swirl of packing and trying to get massive cases out the door. I had ordered a taxi, but I was advised not to wait outside by the new concierge, a far less agreeable bloke. Another guest walked out and took my cab. I waited another 15 minutes and asked if I should go try and grab one. He suggested that was best. I flagged down a taxi dropping guests off. We headed to the bus terminal. When we arrived it was empty. I raced upstairs, but everything was closed. Here we go again. A nice young guy called greyhound for me, but they were not open. I found a security guard who said I was in the wrong place. Need to catch my bus at the train terminal. Here come the tears again. I jumped back in the cab and we raced to the correct location. Sam, my taxi driver, let me use his cell to call Derek and tell him I might not make my bus. We got to the station and I sprinted to the bus, sweaty, makeup smeared and exasperated. “ She be right,” said the old gent with his socks pulled to his knees. “Take a breath you are all set.” I ran back to the cab and grabbed my bags. Paid Sam and got his information. Thank you Sam. You made sure I made my bus and WOW what a ride! I think we put that van on 2 wheels.

And so began the 11 hour bus trek north. A cyclone was dropping buckets of rain and many of the roads were closing due to flash floods. The driver said we would drive north as far as we can and see what happened. This we did. Met a Canadian girl headed for Ningaloo to look for work as an instructor. Had a nice chat and got some reading down. Made a few stops along the way. More Jatz and party mix for lunch! Arrived at the renowned Overlander Roadhouse at 5:30pm and watched as my crew pulled in and stepped out of the car! I went inside and then came out to find my bags gone. The drive said no worries I sent them with the driver to Monkey Mia. WHAT??? I thought they were messing with me! No worries….we can grab them there. Luckily enough the guy had not left and we managed to squeeze my gear into the rental car and the 4 of us headed out for the last 155k of the journey. I arrived to a big hug from Derek and an ice-cold Aussie beer. 4 days, 6 airports, 2 buses, a cab, a rental car and I made it. Monkey Mia is a piece of Heaven on Earth and definitely worth the journey. If it had been an easy trip I would have nothing to write about.

Tiger Beach: Paradise Worth Protecting DeeperBlue.com

Check out my article on DeeperBlue

Tiger Beach is a shark diving Mecca that draws scientists, film crews & divers from across the globe. If you have never slipped beneath the surface at this underwater paradise, it should definitely be on your, “Bucket List.” Thankfully, the white sand here is free of beach chairs or umbrella-adorned drinks, and instead offers massive apex predators. The potential for encounters that are up-close and personal will far exceed anything you could have imagined. I have spent a great deal of time at this adveturous location and it remains one of my favorite places on the planet. Afterall, it was while diving at Tiger Beach that I made a dead fish talk and subsequently my fiancé and I were hooked! We have been together ever since.

Many of the female tiger sharks at, “The Beach,” have become celebrities because they are seen year after year. Emma, a big beauty, even has her own Face Book page. They have become regulars on Discovery’s Shark Week and countless other television programs and documentaries. The shallow depth and aquarium-like visibility make this an ideal location for filming and photographing these charismatic mega-fauna. Scientists and researchers are also to trying to better understand these animals as a means of protecting their future survival.

There is also a reliable troop of lemon sharks that inhabit these waters; numbering anywhere from 15 to 30, when you visit you will find them gathering around the boat. The lemons are more interested in the food than the tigers and seem oblivious to divers at most times. I have also seen Caribbean reef sharks and nurse sharks onsite, with the occasional appearance by a great hammerhead!! Those are my favourite trips. The cast of characters is dynamic, making each trip a unique experience.

Despite the global popularity and love for this site, it remains an unprotected region. It is an open target for sport fisherman seeking out world records, commercial fishing boats weekend warriors heading across from Florida. Sadly, some people have no respect for sharks, only a skewed perception of their purpose or a lack of the fundamental understanding that we are all interconnected. On my last trip, we encountered a well-known female shark that looked like she had been hooked sometime in the last year. She had clearly suffered damage to the right side of her jaw and was extremely skittish. This is an unfortunate manifestation of the often-misguided battle we humans wage against these vital animals. However, resilience can only take you so far. This shark also appeared much skinnier than most of the other regular females. She never even came close to the cage until all the divers were out of the water. Tiger sharks are known to be cautious, but curious, eventually getting close enough that pictures or footage are just a grey/brown blur. So, it is truly devastating to see such a magnificent creature reduced to a fearful shadow of itself. With one single heartless act, humans have the capacity to remove the power and beauty of an animal that has otherwise survived millions of years unaffected.

On my most recent trip to Tiger Beach, I was acting as a private dive guide for "The Undertaker" (a professional wrestler) and his son. It was fascinating to see a man who has lived in an arena with larger-than-life qualities get as excited as a kid on Christmas morning, smiling so much he can hardly keep his regulator in place. At 6’8, even a humongous wrestler felt small next to some of the 8-foot long lemon sharks that spent the day with us. I am pretty confident not many other things have ever made him feel so much smaller. "The Undertaker” asked great questions and spoke with terrific enthusiasm about his very first shark encounter, which he experienced while diving in Fiji. He ardently listened to me speak about the plight of sharks and about safe seafood choices, recycling and marine protected areas. I would like to believe that he is now acting as an advocate for these animals. I am also encouraged that due to their positive experience at Tiger Beach his son is also likely spreading the message to his friends and inspiring them to go see sharks up close.

As a dive guide, videographer and shark naturalist, I have been blessed to share these incredible animals with people first-hand and to capture images that inspire compassion the world over. It is extremely rewarding and I hope that I am able to do so for many years to come. Connecting people with sharks is necessary for the future of their survival, and ultimately ours too. The Bahamas and Tiger Beach are now facing the threat of a shark-finning corporation moving into their waters. Bahamians, the Bahamas National Trust, dive operators, scientists and conservation groups are uniting to prevent would be a complete atrocity and degradation of the oceans in this region. It is incredible to see so many diverse groups collaborating and working towards a common goal. I hope that our voices and actions will be strong enough to save these sharks!

A Sharky Pirate in Neptune’s Army

I am at the Fort Lauderdale airport enjoying the free wireless, thankful for the fact that I am not at MIA. Miami International Airport is like a vortex of delayed flights, lost luggage and the world’s largest gathering of rude people. Sorry- just venting a bit and karma will probably send my bags to Peru. I am flying home to spend a week with the family before heading to the land of Vegemite, koalas and Men At Work. I will have plenty to write about that impending adventure in the next blog, but for now I am writing about Sea Shepherd.
.
Many of you may know where Duncan has been since Nov 27 and others may not. On November 27 I said goodbye to my pirate as he boarded a plane for Tasmania. He was on his way to join the Sea Shepherds as part of the film team for Animal Planet’s Whale Wars. Each Winter Japanese whaling vessels travel to the sanctuary in the southern ocean to collect whales for “research.” Please note I said WHALE SANCTUARY. For most people this would mean a protected area. Down in the raw wildness, however, this means war. The whale meat from animals taken is sold on the Japanese market for very high prices. I dare to boldly say, that there is nothing that even closely resembles research being done. Whales are harpooned, drowning in their own blood before being dragged aboard the factory ship to be processed.



Operation No Compromise marks the 7th campaign that the Sea Shepherd organization has launched against Japanese whalers in the southern ocean. The fleet; Steve Irwin, Bob Barker & Gojira departed Hobart on 2 December to make the long journey to this inhospitable environment. On a mission to defend whales, this daunting task puts lives in danger and stirs a lot of strong opinions in people. I myself am more of a local and grassroots conservationist, but Sea Shepherd is drawing attention to a major global issue. They are criticized for their extreme tactics, but at the same time they are making a strong impact. This radical activism is not for everyone but it holds an important place in the conservation movement.

I will admit that Dunk’s involvement has triggered my curiosity beyond general knowledge of the organization. I finally read the copy of Whale Warriors that has been sitting on the shelf for a few years. Author Pete Heller joined the crew of the Steve Irwin in 2005 and became immersed in the battle at the bottom of the world. I finished it in 2 days. It gave me a great insight into the world that Duncan will be calling home until mid March. I check the website each day, as his emails and intermittent satellite phone calls do not allow for many details. Duncan is a meat & potatoes loving Scotsman, but is actually enjoying the vegan menu. He said the people are some of the most passionate he has ever met and each one has a unique story. They celebrate life and become a family during their 3.5 month boat campaign.



If you have never spent more than a day on a boat, or even a week, then you cannot really comprehend what LIVING on a boat is like. Not just any boat, but a boat that is facing 20 ft seas, freezing water and massive ice bergs. There is never a solid moment and you body must adjust to being in perpetual motion. Meals become an adventure as you are forced to hold onto your plate while trying to eat. Privacy is no longer a word you know, except for a few moments in the head (bathroom on a boat). Whether you agree with the cause or not, at least respect the challenges this crew is facing and their determination.

Duncan is sharing a room with 4 other vegan men and they only get a 3 minute shower every 3 days. Imagine sleeping in your locker room for days and not showering after games. Not appealing? Maybe this is part of the reason that there are no women on the camera teams. No, probably most woman would not rank this at the top of their desired vacation experiences, but I would. There are numerous female crew members on the vessels and to be honest; I would be there in a second. Obviously it would be amazing to share the experience with Duncan, but beyond that the devotion of people, the animals and the time in a place on Earth that very few people visit. Duncan has seen massive ice bergs, pods of orcas cruising by, leopard seals, dolphins and lots of whales. The daylight seems endless in this place that is 18 hours ahead of us. When we spoke today it was midnight there and he was watching the sunset.

The Japanese got a late start this year and they are way below their quota. 2 of the harpoon boats have been on the constant trail of the Steve Irwin and Bob Barker, meaning they are moving too fast to hunt for whales. On January 25 (AEST) Steve Irwin caught up with Nisshin Maru factory ship; where the captured whales are dragged aboard and “studied.” This cat and mouse game has high stakes on the high seas and is not just dramatized for television ratings. It is very real. The danger is real. The whales are real. The people are real. For full details you can check out the website, as their first hand accounts are better than anything I can try to express.


It is not certain when the Japanese will call off the hunt, but as of January 23 there were 54 days left in the “whaling season.” The world is watching and wondering if this will be the last battle. Negative attention is weighing heavy on Japan and pressure is increasing for them to end the unnecessary killing. Whether you agree with Paul Watson and his aquatic army, they are making the world aware of a horrific crime that was slipping below the radar for many years. I am a big believer that EVERY ONE of us can do SOMETHING!! Get canvas grocery bags, stop eating tuna, ride your bike to work 1 day a week, recycle your bottles and cans, reduce the amount of plastic you use, plant a tree or a tomato plant. You do not have to travel to the ends of the Earth to have a voice or make a change. Your own back yard needs it just as much.

SHARKTASTIC

This past week was SHARKTASTIC and I didn’t even go in the water. On Saturday January 29, I was able to join the RJ Marine Conservation Program and students from South Broward High School for a day of shark tagging. This program creates an opportunity for high school students from South Florida to get in the field and experience the work of a marine biologist. Living in South Florida, we are blessed with the Atlantic Ocean in our backyard. It is an amazing natural resource that needs to be protected.



We had a busy day on the boat with 5 nurse sharks, 1 tiger shark, 1 scalloped hammerhead and 5 great hammerheads! The project uses drum lines to fish for the sharks, as this allows the animal to move once it is hooked. The standard work up of a shark includes 3 length measurements ( 2 on a nurse shark), determining sex, taking a DNA sample, a biopsy, taking blood, tagging the animal, removing the hook and releasing the animal.




The DNA sample is taken by clipping a very tiny piece of the dorsal fin. ( Think clipping your nail)



A male shark has 2 external sex organs called claspers, which are extensions of the pelvic fins. A blood sample is taken from soft tissue near the caudal end of the animal. A biopsy sample is taken beside and below the dorsal fin. The animals are given different tags depending on the species being studied and what data is being collected. The great hammerheads were each equipped with a satellite tag that will allow researchers to track there movements as well as allowing students to check in on the sharks via the internet. Spaghetti tags provide a basic ID for the animal and can be used if the animal is captured again.

Our tiger shark was also given a satellite tag to track her movement. Sharks heal incredibly fast, so their new equipment does not hinder their ability to function.





The entire work up is done as efficiently as possible in order to reduce the stress on the animal. Although many people see sharks as monsters, they are in fact highly sensitive creatures and can die simply from the stress caused by being hooked. Dr Hammerschlag and his team move like a well oiled machine and can complete the entire process in less than 7 minutes. It is beautiful to watch science in action and know that each animal is increasing our knowledge about sharks as a whole. It is a long day on the water and despite sea sickness and sunburns, the kids walk away with smiles. They are eagerly snapping photos as they wait their turn to assist in the workup process. I still remember the first time I touched a shark and I am guessing that most of these students will as well.




2 days later I found myself at the Palmer Trinity School in Palmetto, Florida as a guest speaker on sharks. I presented to 6 classes of 6th graders and a single oceanography class. The 6th graders could hardly contain their excitement and soon rumors of, “ the best class ever,” were spreading around the school. Their energy is inspiring and I always try to focus upon these experiences if I get frustrated with unfavorable conditions for these animals or the politics that can arise within the shark world.

For this age group I start off with the image below and ask the kids if they think it is real. Most say no, but there are always one or 2 that say yes. I imagine in a room full of adults, the opposite scenario of responses might be true. I then segue into what really counts as a shark attack. We talk about mistaken identity and how often times we don’t get the real story. 5 people were killed by sharks in 2009. A disparaging contrast to the 100 millions sharks that we killed. Finning, by-catch, commercial fishing and use in “ health” products are the biggest enemies of sharks. I also like to point out that there were 43,00o toilet related injuries in the US in 1996. Yes kids, your toilet at home is more dangerous than any encounter you will ever have with a shark. This gets a laugh and gets them thinking. The danger in our everyday lives is far more prevalent than any experience with a shark is or would be.



I move on to understanding sharks as apex predators and why they are crucial to the survival of our oceans. It is not just that I am obsessed with sharks, but the fact is that the oceans WILL die without them. This effects every single one of us. I talk about tagging and pass around some tags and a circle hook that is used for catching sharks to minimize injury. I use lots of images as a way of getting the kids excited. The video of a lemon shark giving birth elicits a lot of “ewwwws” and, “ gross,” but it keeps them wanting more. I talk about my experience photographing and filming and then finish up by offering suggestions to things that they can do. It is important to remind them that even though they are young, they have a voice and they can make a difference. They can go home and talk to their family about why sharks are so important. They can encourage older family members to recycle and make smarter sea food choices. They can go for a snorkel or visit an aquarium. When they start to think about these things you can see the level of enthusiasm build and you know the future of shark conservation is developing.

Just prior to my trip on the boat, a well known shark diving operator was air lifted to a hospital in Florida after suffering a shark bite in the Bahamas. Immediately my inbox began filling and I received several phone calls. I commend Jim Abernathy on how he handled the media frenzy. He is a true advocate for these animals and will be back out on the water as soon as he can. When you spend enough time around any wild animal it is like being a chef; eventually you might get burned. Things happen, but we cannot destroy a creature of let the media run rampant with glorified hysteria. We must remain true to what we believe about these animals and continue to push for their protection.

It has been a sharky week and I am preparing for my next adventure.....Australia here I come.