Layin Low in Bimini: It's Good to be Home

Home is said to be,” where your heart is,” and for most people this goes along with the place they sleep, keep their belongings, have pets, raise their children and build their life. For Duncan and I the meaning is a bit more literal, with home being where our hearts, as physical organs, happen to be. We spend most of the year on the road and have, without even realizing it, become accustom to defining wherever we are as home. It is not home by most definitions, but it works for us. We even say we are heading home when leaving a restaurant or pub in some strange city rather than saying we are going back to the hotel. It just seems natural and happens without us realizing it, although we usually have a giggle about it. Sometimes we even get to unpack our suitcases and put clothes into drawers. It is strange and aside from their week vacation, the idea probably terrifies most people, but we have made it our life.

This uncanny ability flows with us across the globe, invisibly packed in our checked luggage, never costing us overage, only bringing us a sense of comfort wherever we are. I am sure being a working couple, traveling together, also aides in the process. There are, however, some places that really feel like home in the more traditional sense of the word and the islands of Bimini are one of those places for us. Bimini is located approximately 50 miles from the east coast of Florida and has a rich history of fishing, rum and mystery. Hemingway and the Rat Pack were regulars in their hay day, rumrunners used the island during prohibition and the road to Atlantis is thought to lie just off shore. The islands are also home to the world-renowned Bimini Biological Field Station (Sharklab) and the ocean is teaming with a diverse population of sharks.






Continental has a larger plane that flies to the island, but the standard planes are 8-10 passenger because the runway is fairly small. The great thing about small planes is the view of the island as you approach and a unique feeling of being closer to everything as you take off and land. On large planes you can get lost in the mass of people and may not even be able to see out a window. There is no bad seat on a tiny plane, well unless your head is hitting the ceiling. You might also have a big screen television or other home appliance buckled into the seat next to you. We have buckled in camera housings and Pelican cases before. The journey is really the start of the island experience.






When I wrenched myself out of the tiny seat at the back of the plane and unfolded my legs hoping they would work, I breathed in the island air. The islands run on a different schedule and it takes a minute to get into that groove. We flew Pioneer Air for the first time and arrived at a warehouse in Fort Lauderdale’s Executive Airport that was shut up and looked abandoned. Their agent assured us over the phone that we were in the right place, but they were running a little late. And so it starts. We corralled our luggage around the door and waited. I am drafting an email to my friends, who will be flying over for our wedding in a month, regarding the less than strict flight schedule they may encounter. We checked in for our 12 o’clock flight at 11:30 and Duncan helped the pilot load luggage onto the plane.

Duncan and I had 10 bags with us including 2 computers, hard drives, 2 full scuba kits, 2 underwater camera housings, 3 cameras, wedding favors, 3 wedding dresses, a kilt and a few other clothing items. Shenae and Craig were great and managed to get all but 3 of our bags on our flight. They assured us that they would arrive on the 4 pm flight. No worries. Probably seems bizarre to people reading this that we would just leave our luggage, but if you think about it you leave your luggage with less caring strangers every single time you fly! We had a full house of 8 on the plane and although I wanted to fly as co pilot, I opted to stay in the back on hold gear along with Duncan. The plane seats 10 with the pilot, having one seat in the cockpit next to him.




There is no lengthy safety briefing, no beverages or peanuts are served and there is no toilet. You reach altitude and begin your descent with the total flight time being approximately 20 minutes. We lucked out with a clear day and could see the island from quite a distance. There is a shade of blue that I have only ever seen in the ocean around Bimini and it is always a magical sight that makes my heart happy.








The tight quarters of the plane make for an easy conversation starter and we chatted with 2 girls that had just traveled to the states from Australia. I always get excited chatting about Australia. One was American now living in Australia, bringing her friend to see the island. We chatted about Aus and things to do on the island and pretty soon the landing gear was going down. Dunk helped unload the luggage again, as it seems a bit unfair that the pilot has to not only fly the plane, but also deal with everyone’s luggage. I fought with 3 dresses and headed to customs. We waited our turn before heading in. The typical questions of “why you are here,” and, “ how long do you want to stay,” were asked as the customs agent stamped my passport. I could feel myself glowing as I answered that I was here to get married in a month! We got our visas and loaded the gear into Nasty’s cab. A nice new carrier van has replaced his old passenger van. Nasty is one of the regular drivers on the island and his megawatt smile is anything but nasty.




The air, the water and the people wrap around you like a massive hug and I immediately felt a sense of ease and comfort. Getting all the gear over and moving it all around was a bit stressful, but all of that melted away. For us, Bimini is like slipping into your favorite pair of comfy pants; all seems right in the world and your entire being settles into a state of relaxation. They might be a bit ratty or frayed, but you cannot get rid of them.

We settled into our home for next 6 weeks at the Bimini Sands before hitting the Petite Conch for lunch. We headed for the beach after lunch to take a walk and test the temperature of that Bimini blue water. This is home for me, the salt air, the sand between my toes and the gorgeous sea surrounding us. These are my white picket fence and well-manicured yard in a safe neighborhood. I made several trips to Bimini before making it my home in 2009. Duncan managed the Sharklab before we both took a job working on a dolphin boat. We have a big family on the island and love hitching rides in golf carts, pot cakes, the water taxi, Saturday morning souse at the Beach Club and all the little nooks and crannies of the underwater world. We are greeted with massive smiles and hugs that make you feel like you are visiting a favorite uncle.



The South Island of Bimini is about 6 miles long and is where we stay when we are on the rock. There are very few cars with golf carts being a more sensible option. You can easily walk everywhere, but most people offer you a lift when they pass by. It’s fun to jump on the back and make new friends or catch up with old ones. Pot cakes are the stray dogs, “ a little bit of everything in the pot,” that roam the island. Souse is a traditional island dish that is anything (meat or fish) boiled down in the juice of fresh limes, lemons or sour oranges. Other ingredients include diced celery, carrot, potato, sliced onions, green peppers, black pepper, Bahamian red peppers and a touch of garlic. The water taxi is a five-minute boat ride between the north and south islands that costs $2.00. All little treasures of this gem floating in the Gulf Stream.

Key West Fishing Tournament Makes a Bold Move

The Shark Free Marina Initiative not only encourages marinas to sign on, but also for tournaments to change their rules to catch and release. If people insist on catching sharks, at least the animal has a chance. This is still a grey area because they animals are heavily stressed when caught and often die despite being released. Property method needs to be put in place and fishermen need to make the effort in minimizing stress and increase efficiency for the release. Catch and release is not the ideal end point, but it is a giant step in the right direction.

When I read that the Key West Fishing Tournament had made the ground breaking move to no longer accept shark weights towards winning counts I was thrilled. Key West is a Mecca for game fishing, so this was a risky and powerful move on the director’s behalf. I was also excited because if such a well-known and respected tournament makes the change, they will stand as a solid example for other tournaments in Florida and across the United States. This is an all ages tournament as well, so it stands to set an example for younger generations.

It was brought to my attention that within the official rules, “Sharks may be shot while the leader is being handled by a crew member.” This is an obvious conflict of the announcement to make the tournament shark free. I scanned the website and found a contact to ask about the rule. I have dealt with people that organize tournaments in the past and have received very defensive responses and anticipated a less than polite reply. Most often too stubborn to listen to any reason on why their actions might be worth rethinking.



Not only was the response I received polite, but Rob, the director, seemed to be thankful that such a mistake in the edit of the website had been found. We exchanged a few emails and I have even more of a respect for his movement to make change. Often times it is not the locals, but the tourists that put pressure on Florida fishermen. Pressure to find the fish and pressure to kill. At the end of the day the tourists leave and the locals are left with a sea that has been raped. They don’t care that all the sharks they take are having a massive impact on the local and global environment. They just want their trophy to brag about back home.

Below is the email I received from Rob and I do hope to continue working with him. He is one person, just like the rest of us, who spoke up and wants better for the oceans. We all have a voice and it might be tough sometimes, but change is never easy. What is happening in your backyard? What d you want to change.

Thank you Rob and thank you Jason for finding the error in the rules!

Jillian,

My thanks to you for catching that line in the rules. Granted it would have been offset by the line item that we don’t accept dead sharks as an entry, but still, I’d rather have all references to killing sharks removed from any/all of our materials. Hopefully we can set the example for other tournaments as well.

Here in the Keys, shark fishing has always been popular with people visiting the islands from the mainland due to the “hype” of the “man-eater” status sharks have been tagged with. I personally won’t take charters out for “shark trips”. I realize that is a personal decision made by me that sometimes does come with financial risks, but so be it. I am now involved in a personal campaign to educate the Charter community on the fact that if the person wants to have a mount made of a shark (or other species), there is no reason to kill the fish. I still see sharks being brought back to the dock in what I know is an effort to “pressure” the clients into buying the mount.

It will most likely be an uphill battle, but the more the word gets spread around to the anglers, the more pressure will be placed on the boats to release the fish. If you happen to see anything else on our site like the item you found, please don’t hesitate to contact me. Also, if you know of a way that I can help the effort to promote releasing sharks, I’d love to hear it.

Sincerely,

Rob

Say NO to Shark on the Menu in Florida

info@sharkbitegrille.com

Sharkbite Grille, located in Jupiter, Florida serves shark on it's menu. Jupiter is home to some groundbreaking shark science and it is an horrific irony that a restaurant would even consider serving such a dish. Please take the time to send a letter and express your concern. Draft your own or copy and paste the one I have written below. Change happens in our own backyards and we need to be aware of what is happening in our neighborhoods.



To Whom It May Concern:

I am writing as a concerned consumer in regards to the shark that is offered on your menu. Thousands of people travel to Florida to have wild encounters with these incredible animals and it is a shame that a Florida restaurant would serve them on their menu. Sharks are crucial for the survival of our oceans and many species are now protected in Florida waters. The waters off Jupiter are home to a groundbreaking study site, where numerous universities and organizations are learning vital information about these animals. Sharks also have extremely high mercury contents, which can cause serious health risks. Please rethink your choice to serve this on your menu and ask yourselves if it is really worth it.

Cheers,

Key West Fishing Tournament is SHARK FREE

The decision is described as, " landmark," and it is truly a step in the right direction. The 8 month long tournament announced on February 10 that it will not include weights for ANY sharks during the tournament. They will only accept released sharks. This is a great improvement, but the sad part is that many of those, " released," sharks will most likely die. Being reeled into a boat can be extremely stressful on the animal, with some species more susceptible than others. If the fisherman is not aware of the sharks condition or how to swim a shark to revive them, the animals will most likely drown. It is wonderful news that sharks will not be strung up on docks as mere weight added in for a win, but there are still great strides to be made. Kudos to Key West for making a move in the right direction.

Key West Fishing Tournament

Bali Part III: Diving Blue Lagoon

One of the most amazing highlights from my first trip to Bali was the diving. I spent a day at Nusa Penida diving with 10 manta rays and another day exploring the Liberty wreck off the coast of Tulamben. I really wanted Duncan to dive the wreck, so I called Aqua Marine Diving because they had been 5-star on my first excursion. Diving in Bali is not just strapping a tank on, but rather an experience. The drive north to reach sites takes you through gorgeous countryside and the beach side cafes are little gems tucked away. The black sand at Tulamben is breathtaking as you trek down the beach to the entry point for the wreck. We booked in for 2 dives on the Liberty, but plans took an unfortunate turn. Weather was causing extreme currents to shut down the diving in that area and limit our options. After reading several reviews we opted for Blue Lagoon, figuring if nothing else we might see some cool macro critters.



The Aqua Marine van pulled up at 6:30 am and we climbed in. After a stop off in Sanur we began weaving our way out of the city. The countryside changed quickly as rice fields replaced tightly packed buildings. We headed east and the sea came into view. Mountains rose out of the fields to the west of us and the beauty of Bali began to shine. It is sometimes difficult to find the beauty because there is a lot of trash and pollution, but it never relents and is there for those who look past the exterior flaws. I explained this to Duncan as we walked down the street in Nusa Dua and found a carved elephant that was overrun with vines and trash. If you looked close though, you could see the intricate detail of the carving and appreciate the craftsmanship.

As we approached Padangbai the left side of the road was lined with trucks, all stuffed full with fruit, vegetables, building supplies and all sorts of random things. There must have been at least 150 trucks pulled over with their drivers playing cards, napping, eating and just killing time. Upon asking we were informed that weather had shut down all ferries and vessels going to Lombok. The weather was definitely worse than we had realized, considering the cargo ferries are pretty large. Crossing the Lombok straight can be dangerous and apparently they had lost a few vessels in recent months and were being overly cautious. The men driving the trucks would have to wait hours or even days until the block was lifted. Can you imagine telling a truck driver in the states that he had to just chill and wait with no air conditioned cabin, hotel room or meal in a restaurant? It is a different world.

Padangbai is a small village on the east coast of Bali. The hostels and cafes that line the shore have a surfer vibe and laid-back atmosphere. We were dropped at the same café I visited on my previous dive excursion. The walls were decorated with signs and shells; palm trees and plants provided a lush backdrop and cats snuck around the tables looking for a treat. We enjoyed our free coffee and waited for the gear to be loaded on the boat. We chatted with a girl visiting from Australia who was trying to get to Lombok. She loved being stuck in Padangbai as she waited for the weather to break. She raved about the quaint village and we sucked in all the information, plotting our next visit. This will definitely be our choice destination next time. Diving and the beach, not many tourists; perfect!






Our dive guide called us to the boat and we waded out to board. The boats are moored just off the beach and were really clean, comfortable and fast. Our group was a mix of divers and snorkelers headed for a day at the lagoon. We were set to do 2 dives before returning to enjoy lunch at the café. Our first dive was fairly shallow, as my sinuses were aching and I didn’t want to push it. In hindsight, the three weeks sinus infection, strep throat and fever that followed was probably not worth the diving. Ah well. We enjoyed massive schools of fish. It is incredible to see such healthy fish populations decorating the watery landscape. There are very few places in the world that populations are as dense as they are in Indonesia. The coral was not overly rich, but we did enjoy the largest field of stag horn coral that I have seen in a long time. Sad that coral fields as far as the eye can see are a rare treat in most parts of the world. Our guide rushed us a long a bit, but I wanted to sit and watch the sweet lips. They are one of my absolute favorite fish and I don’t get much time with them. They have amazing faces and if you are patient you can often catch a cleaning station.











We moved along, exploring the crevices and finding nudibranchs, clown fish and other tiny treasures before returning to the boat. Our sixty-minute dive was relaxing and beautiful. We spent our surface interval chatting with some of the other guests and our guides, while enjoying the lush mountains exploding up from the sea. We could also see the massive volcano in the distance. Such a wild and rugged place when you remove the people and buildings that cover the shoreline. I like to think about places when the first explorers arrived by boat, that sense of raw wilderness and the excitement of exploration through lands unknown to the wayward travelers. Like anything, we sometimes miss our own experience until we are able to step outside of it. I wonder if the Balinese people realize what they have? Difficult sometimes when you put your head down to work and survive. I feel extremely fortunate every time I am able to get lost in a new world and immerse myself in the sights, sounds, smells and the sea.










Our next dive was probably one of the more bizarre that I have had in my experience of the underwater world. There is a massive submarine that takes tourists around the lagoon and it can be seen from various dive points, as it passes. We could hear the loud thud, thud, thud and whir of the propeller long before the white ghost came into view. The visibility was not excellent, so the submarine was very eerie as it moved in and out of our sights. Our guide kept trying to get us to see it, but we were over it the after the first encounter. It rides around in a deep area with no real life or structure. I felt like I was in an episode of Scooby-Doo crossed with a Clive Cussler novel. I am still struggling to get my head around it.



We found more nudibranchs and a black ribbon eel. The ribbon eels are so small and so animated. I could watch them for hours and was excited for Duncan to see his first one. Our guide disappeared as we hovered above the tiny creature. I got lost following 6 Moorish idols (like Gil from Finding Nemo) and again when I encountered an anemone filled with panda clownfish. I could watch clownfish all day. Their little faces are so cute and they have so much spunk. I find myself giggling and giving off a little squeal every time I see them. Yes, I am a dork, but I am completely okay with that.

We returned to the beach and found our way back to the café. Lunch was served as we sat down and we grabbed a couple of Bintangs to wash it down; nothing like an ice-cold beer after a dive. We settled into the back seat of the van for the ride home. It is nearly impossible for me to stay awake, post compressed air, ocean, sun and beer. I think I made it about 20 minutes into the ride trying to force my eyes open, not wanting to miss the countryside as it slipped past.





Blue Lagoon is good for easy diving and the schools of fish are amazing. Macro critters are a highlight and the surface interval provides and incredible view. Aqua Marine is a great operation and the price is very reasonable for what you get. I would recommend the Liberty Wreck and will definitely make the trek back to dive it again!

Bali Who: Part II -Meals, Mullets and Magical Dance

Happy Birthday Duncan. I planned a relaxing day for Duncan, starting with a Balinese massage. Balinese women are miracle workers with hand strength far exceeding their petite stature. While Duncan tried to put the disposable underwear on his head, causing a commotion at the spa, I settled into a book and people watching.Yes, Duncan thought that the tiny pare of undies one of the ladies handed him could not possibly be expected to cover his unmentionables. I have had a massage in Bali before and has encountered to paper panties, but forgot to warn him. An international incident was avoided when Dunk negotiated with the ladies to wear his own boxers instead of the standard issue pair, not without a lot of blushing and laughter. The beach was decorated with large men in small swimsuits. Speedos, banana hammocks or my favorite-budgie smugglers (Australian slang) are certainly not fashionable, but they definitely don’t look comfortable either. So neither fashion nor function, unless you are a competitive swimmer and I doubt any of the men I witnessed fell into that category. Always amazes me.







Duncan survived his massage and we enjoyed a relaxing day by the pool before getting ready for our dinner adventure. The reviews I read about our hotel had several complaints about the size of the pool. I have to say that the pool was pretty massive with a large deep end and special area for kids. Yes, I have seen bigger pools, but this one was lovely and always very clean. I will say however, that the ocean in front of the hotel was pretty murky, which limited my swimming to one wade in up to my shins. Sad that such a gorgeous place has much so much trash and pollution.

My plan for Duncan’s birthday dinner was to eat on the beach at Jimbaran Bay. This area is renowned for its seafood restaurants that line the bay and offer tables on the sand, often with live dances or music. I selected a restaurant and made arrangements with Made, who would be our taxi driver for the remainder of our trip. When you pull in to the restaurant, yes you pull in vehicle and all; you are rushed by staff members and escorted to the dinning area. The vehicles are checked with mirrors on sticks in attempt to scout out bombs. This happens at every hotel as well. Since the 2002 bombings that killed 202 people, security has been heightened to reduce other incidents and also ease the minds of tourists in attempt to draw them back to the island.

Our host suggested we sit inside because the wind was quite intense, ripping up and down the beach. I was so disappointed and checked the beach tables just in case. Seeing that we would have been blown off our seats we settled at a table just inside a covered patio with an ocean view. We opted for fruity cocktails and the bartender whipped up something special for Dunk’s birthday, said with a twinkle in his eye. I reiterated that we did not want ice in our drinks. Water is an issue in Bali and even though you might not drink from the tap the ice cubes are made from that water. Yes, many hotels make them from bottled water, but many places do not. I did not want to start our holiday off with a nice serving of Bali Belly, so we asked for our drinks straight up. We were warned by the news before we left that there were issues recently, even with the bottled water. Duncan’s family grabbed us a bottle of Cotties Red Cordial to stash in our suitcase. Apparently this is the Australian travel secret for Bali. There is some sort of antibacterial chemical in the red cordial (a little scary in itself) that prevents Bali Belly. We started each day by pouring some in our bottles of water.

The standard procedure of these restaurants is for you to pick out your seafood and the amount you want. I let Dunk have the honor and waited to see what would arrive. You have the option of fried, grilled or steamed. We went with grilled, trying to stay somewhat healthy. We enjoyed local snapper, clams and calamari. We always check the fish, what type and where it is from. Nice when you can actually see it before. We rarely eat seafood out, so this was a nice treat. They put on quite a lavish spread with soup, salad and rolls before the main entrée. Dishes are served family style and you go for it. We washed down dinner with some cold Bintangs, the local Indonesian beer and enjoyed the wild ocean that was ravaging the beach. A local band sang “Happy birthday,” to Duncan as well as the Jimmy Cliff classic, “ I Can See Clearly Now.” Amazing how some songs transcend all languages and culture and make people smile everywhere they are played. The man singing had an incredible voice and we graciously tipped them for their performance.

We enjoyed fresh fruit for dessert before taking a stroll along the beach. Sadly, the beach was covered in trash. Debris washed a shore, but was also refuse from the restaurants. Makes your heart so sad to see. The waves crashing onto the beach were littered with brightly colored masses of plastic, while napkins, plastic forks and straws covered the beach in white. All the romance in the walk was lessened because we were both disheartened trying to dodge the trash. I wonder why people don’t care about the planet. Filthy beaches are no good for the earth and certainly not a selling point for tourists, a major industry in Bali. We managed to find some bare patches and did our best to enjoy the stroll before returning to meet Made. He was there and ready, most of the time they don’t actually leave, but hang out and wait for you. We were whisked back to the hotel and enjoyed a few cocktails before retiring.

Breakfast on our all-inclusive package was consistently the best meal of the day. They really put on a spread with the most eclectic mix of options I have ever seen. The Asian culture has had a tremendous influence on the island and this is seen in miso soup, noodles and pot stickers for breakfast. They also offered fresh fruit, yogurt, eggs cooked to order, pancakes, sausage, bacon, potatoes and other hot treats along with dozens of bread and pastry options. I figured, “ when in Rome,” and had some noodles with vegetables on one morning, veering from my regular massive fruit bowl and yogurt. We hit the fresh fruit season just right. The watermelon, my favorite fruit, was incredible. Definitely the best watermelon I have ever had. We also enjoyed pineapple, mango, cantaloupe, papaya, honeydew, mini bananas, passion fruit and snake fruit. I became obsessed with snake fruit on my first visit and have tried to find it other places with no luck. Called snake fruit because of the skin, Salak looks like giant cloves of garlic and is like no other fruit I have tasted. I got a giant bag at the market to have in our fridge along with having it at every meal. Dunk was not a fan; fine more for me.



Lunches were al a Carte and always include a lush salad bar and fruit tray. Gado-Gado was my favorite option. A traditional dish of noodles, bean sprouts, cabbage, green beans, scallions, tofu and tempe (firm soybean patty also known as tempeh) with a light peanut sauce. YUM! Dinners were a bit more varied with themes most nights. We had a Moroccan BBQ followed by some unfortunate live music. Think BAD karaoke. We had a traditional Indonesian night with a great dance performance. This was amazing and part of the culture that is incredibly beautiful. I was so excited for Duncan to see the intricate movements of the girls’ eyes and individual fingers. The movements are trance like and I got completely lost. Balinese dance is not just a performance, but also a visual and audible experience.








Another night we enjoyed the Kecak Dance. In this tradition, a group of men chant and sing to create a beat and tell a story. Dancers fill the space around a flame and love, battles and drama unfold in front of the audience. We got a seat up front and got drawn into the rapture. It always amazes me how disrespectful people can be when others are speaking or performing. We had people that would not stop talking sitting next to us. If you don’t want to enjoy the show then why are you sitting up front? I thought we might be safe from the loud talkers on their cells phones, but no, not even a quiet evening at a remote resort can thwart that. These people are sharing their culture and a sense of pride in their country and you cannot sit and stay quiet for 20 minutes. Boggles my mind.








When you stay at an all inclusive resort you get to know the other guests, as you see them at almost every meal and at the pool each day. Most people opt for all-inclusive because God forbid they venture out and see the country and meet the people. We had some amazing characters that shared the week with us. I spotted a Boston Bruins hat and commented, making friends with a couple from Massachusetts. There was the young couple that slathered themselves in sun block, but failed to cover their small children, who turned various shades of red over the week. The massive eating couple, with the husband nearly taking off my arm to grab a plate and get ahead of me in the buffet line. His wife gave me an embarrassed look of apology while he mumbled something under his breath. I just smiled and remembered never to get between him and a meal. Then there were the three young Brits that had shown up probably looking for Spring Break and found a family resort. These three guys played chicken in the pool and often shared 2 sun loungers between them. They were an odd looking trio, but seemed to make the most of the lack of party atmosphere. Most people that age flock to Kuta, the supreme party epicenter.

The most amazing couple however, was team mullet. It is not often that female mullet is displayed in full glory, but we were fortunate enough to have such an encounter each day of our holiday. Mr. Mullet rocked the graying long and curly, with luxurious locks below his shoulders for the party portion. His wife preferred the sporty model in jet black. The icing on the cake was the collection of banana hammocks that Mr. Mullet rocked poolside. My personal favorite was a pair of aged boy shorts that had writing on the butt, usually reserved for college coeds or members of cheering squads. I have never seen anything like it and it really was his defining moment of glory. When you start to grow that style, what do you say to the hairdresser or barber? Do you ask for business on top and party in the back? I am sure this couple had been sporting these dos since the 80’s and just wonder what goes through people’s heads. As someone with short hair that often decides to grow it out, the impending mullet that could happen makes me cut is short with reckless abandon. I fear the mullet, but am in awe of those who put in a solid performance.

Bali Part 1:

I fell in love with Bali for the first time in 2008. It was not like anyplace I had ever been with the smell of flowers and incense filling the air, the gorgeous people welcoming me with open hearts and the mind blowing underwater world. Duncan and I met later the same year and I spoke about Bali so much that it became an ongoing joke about me trying to get him there. I knew he was intrigued as to why it had affected me so strongly and knew it would only be a matter of time before I dragged him there. We began traveling to more exotic locations and experiencing new adventures, although still in my heart, Bali slipped from my mind.



After the dramatic ending to our Whale Wars film shoot, we decided that a week somewhere to relax and actually process what we had been through was much needed. Amazing how you keep pushing forward and get the job done, without allowing yourself a moment to take in the emotions and the feelings of what you have experienced. We contemplated areas of Australia and realized that it would blow our budget very quickly. I love Australia, but it is very expensive to vacation there. I began to look at other options that were close by and would offer a cheap escape. Thailand, Indonesia and Fiji are all fairly close and easy to get to, but an add on the television for Bali caught my eye. The fire for Bali was reignited and I began furiously plotting and planning a trip. It worked out that 10 days in Bali, including round trip airfare and all meals, was cheaper than a week’s accommodation and meals in Australia. We were also approaching Duncan’s birthday and I wanted him to celebrate it on a beach somewhere, as last year he spent it on the boat in Antarctica.

Our first travel plan was rescheduled because we were asked to extend our shoot and take a detour to Albany, Western Australia. We wrapped our shoot and the plan was set. I hate all-inclusive packages and avoid them like the plague, but without a car and staying in a higher end, but remote (as I remembered) part of the island, we thought it might be the most cost effective option. I hesitantly pushed the “book” button and it disappeared into cyberspace. We made arrangements for our hotel shuttle and all that was left to do was pack. We left our massive cases loaded with winter weather gear and random items with our Aussie family. They had been wonderful and opened their home to us numerous times, because we keep coming back.

With a bag each, we returned the rental car to the airport and went to check in. The flight was scheduled to be 3 hours and 40 minutes, which in my world equals one trashy magazine and a nap. The guy at the exchange counter asked if we had US dollars for the visa. I had completely forgotten that they only accept US dollars for the $25 visa fee. Odd because the US dollar has tanked and they would be better off requesting a different currency. Anyway, we got the required money and made our way to the Virgin terminal. I have to say the Virgin (America, Atlantic or Australia) is the way to fly. The crew is always friendly, economy seats do not equal riding in a sardine can and there are free movies, great food and alcohol.






We arrived in darkness, which always adds an element of fear and excitement as the drive rips around corners. The arrival process in Bali is chaos, but nothing compared to the exit. (See the next bog) Indonesia offers visas on arrival for most western countries, so we were all set in that department. We paid our $25 and got inspected by customs before passing through. You hand off your standard arrival forms and then are ushered through to grab your luggage. I had not warned Duncan that there would be a sea of men waiting to wrestle bags off the belt and demand money for their safe return or to tote them to another location. As a man moved towards Duncan’s bag I found myself becoming that person in slow motion, moving towards Dunk and yelling, “doooooooonnnn’t leeeettttttttt hiiiiiimmmmm…touch the bag.” Duncan stood there, bag in hand giving me his,” Jill, what are spazzing about now,” look. I explained the situation and we gathered our bags and navigated the gauntlet out to the arrivals area. I scanned the crowd and saw the sign with Ms Morris on it and moved with authority towards our driver.

Our package at Club Bali Mirage included roundtrip airport transfers, so we jumped at the offer. We usually prefer to rent a car, but what I remembered of driving in Bali was absolutely terrifying. I say this having seen the 405 at rush hour and making regular appearances on I-95 in Miami. Duncan stared wide-eyed as we weaved in and out of traffic and zipped around corners. Our arrival was a blur and as we checked in at the open-air lobby, our fresh juice welcome cocktails were delivered. Apa Kabar was the only thing I really remembered and I did manage to wow our driver with language prowess, counting to 5 in Balinese. I asked how to say thank you and we were at least on our way. I find that knowing even a few words makes all the difference. It shows respect and an effort to really connect with the people of wherever you are traveling too. Don’t worry if you mispronounce, they will appreciate the gesture and most likely you will get a smile.




We were shown to our room, passing through the lounge area and making our way to the 3rd floor. Anxious to see our deluxe room, we fumbled with the card to open the door. Voila! Two single beds! What? 6 weeks in bunks and there was no way I was paying to sleep in a single bed. I explained to the concierge and he suggested that we move the beds together. I am not a travel diva, but I had a moment. Oh hell no, we are not paying for a room where we have to move the beds together. I marched downstairs and explained the situation. Unfortunately there were no deluxe rooms, so the slumber party idea was suggested again. Not happening. The man behind the desk twitched a bit before he offering us a Romance room. Excellent. We moved down the hall and walked in to find that “romance” means hanging a drapery around the bed from ceiling to floor. Exhausted we put our gear down with a sigh of success and exhaustion. Our new room looked like the pictures of the deluxe room that were shown on the website, so all had worked out.



Our package included 24-hour meals, so we decided to check out the menu. We washed down mie goreng and nasi goreng with bottles of Bali Hai. We were the only people in the massive main dinning area and it was all a bit surreal. Both of these dishes are pretty standard in Bali with vegetables and meat mixed with noodles
(mie) or rice (nasi), served with a friend egg on top. Without meat, they are a delicious vegetarian option. With bellies full, we slipped into vacation mode and enjoyed another beer. We managed to stay up until midnight, well I should say, I managed, as Dunk is always a night owl. We toasted Duncan’s birthday before retiring to our room.

I was a little worried that Duncan would be disappointed if Bali was not everything I had described. I had made the vacation call and wanted him to fall in love like I did. I also wanted to make sure that his birthday was a blast. We had celebrated it early before we left for Australia, expecting to be somewhere bobbing around Antarctica. The circumstances had changed, so I wanted to make sure we were somewhere warm and that he had a really nice day. I booked him a Balinese massage and planned a dinner on the beach at Jimbaran Bay. I also looked into other activities to fill our vacation. We did not want to do too much, as the point was to relax and recharge, but I wanted to make sure he really got to see the culture. With this, I set out to book a road trip, diving and a trip to Kuta.